A couple of weeks ago, I was doing some research for my upcoming cookbook when I came across a blurb about Meyer Lansky, a Jewish gangster otherwise known as the “Mob’s Accountant.” I’ve never been very interested in mafia history, and yet this passage stuck with me. Apparently Lansky was a regular patron of Ratner’s, a Jewish dairy restaurant in New York City. Lansky, along with fellow mobsters Charlie “Lucky” Luciano and Bugsy Siegel, were known to frequent the restaurant. Their favorite menu item? Cheese blintzes. Like many well-known personalities of the past, these mobsters saw Ratner’s as more than just a restaurant. It was a place to hang out, chat, and do business, all while enjoying a dose of Jewish comfort food. Though it’s been closed since 2002, mention the word Ratner’s today and faces continue to light up with recognition. How did a little New York kosher dairy restaurant gain such notoriety, in the mob and beyond?
Jacob Harmatz and Morris Ratner, two brothers-in-law, opened Ratner’s Restaurant on the Lower East Side of Manhattan in 1905. As Katz’s Deli became increasingly famous for their tender, juicy pastrami and corned beef, the pair saw a need for a dairy restaurant where vegetarian, cheese, and fish dishes could take center stage. Ratner won naming rights to the Pitt Street restaurant when he defeated Harmatz in a coin toss. The restaurant became well known for its kosher meatless menu, including such Jewish delights as onion rolls, borscht, vegetarian chopped liver, latkes, and a variety of sweet and savory blintzes. Ratner left the partnership and sold his half of the business to Harmatz in 1918, but the restaurant continued to bear his name. That same year, the more well known Delancey Street location opened. In its heyday, Ratner’s served Sunday brunch to about 1,200 people each week. Patrons included such luminaries as Al Jolson, Fanny Brice, Jackie Mason, Elia Kazan, Walter Matthau, Groucho Marx, Robert Kennedy, Nelson Rockefeller… and even the occasional mafia member.
Meyer Lansky, the “Mob’s Accountant,” 1958. Wikimedia Commons
Before Meyer Lansky became the “Mob’s Accountant” and a regular patron of Ratner’s, he was Meyer Suchowljansky, born on July 4, 1902 in Gradno, Poland. The Suchowljansky family was well respected in Gradno, though they weren’t immune to the anti-Semitic feelings of the time. Gradno was considered somewhat safe for Jews until the end of the 19th century, when the Russian Tzar legalized persecution of the Jews living there. At that time, Jewish citizens had three choices – they could stay and endure the oppressive conditions of their home country, emigrate to the Jewish holy land, or make their way to America and start fresh. Meyer’s grandfather Benjamin chose Jerusalem, while Meyer’s father, Max, chose America.
In 1909, Max set off for America alone, hoping to send for his family in Poland soon after. At the tender age of 7, Meyer was forced to become the “man of the house.” By 1911, Max had earned enough to bring his family over to America through the port of Odessa. Meyer traveled overseas with his mother and brother on an overcrowded, rickety tramp steamer. Upon their arrival in America, they settled in a predominantly Jewish neighborhood, Brownsville. Max changed their last name to his wife’s more pronounceable family name, Lansky, presumably to help them fit in better. Max worked hard to support his family, but when times got tough, the Lanskys were forced to move to the Lower East Side tenement district. Meyer became accustomed to a new life without an emphasis on his Jewish faith. Without his grandfather Benjamin around, the family began to lose touch with some of their religious traditions. Instead, Meyer was encouraged to focus on his studies at public school, where he discovered his aptitude for mathematics. This talent would become crucial to his career later in life.
Meyer Lansky, being led by a detective for booking on a vagrancy charge at the 54th Street police station, New York City. Library of Congress
Meyer remained close to his family. One of his main responsibilities was to deliver the cholent for the Shabbat midday meal. He would walk the stew over to a bakery on Delancey street after school on Fridays. For a nickel, the bakery would cook the cholent overnight and have it ready to be picked up the next day. Accomplishing this task for his family was a great source of pride for Meyer. It was on one of his many cholent deliveries that Meyer was introduced to street gambling. He was immediately drawn to the activity because it involved numbers. Soon he was betting his cholent nickels on street crap games. It was here that he began to meet the unsavory characters that would help to shape his career path.
Charles “Lucky” Luciano at the Excelsior Hotel, Rome – June 11, 1948. Wikimedia Commons.
Violence was growing in Meyer’s neighborhood, and organized crime was on the rise. As a teen, he befriended Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel. Around the same time he also met Charles “Lucky” Luciano, who made money offering protection to Jewish youth from Irish and Italian gangs. Meyer, Bugsy and Lucky became lifelong partners in friendship and crime. Lucky eventually rose to lead the New York Italian mafia, with Meyer and Bugsy by his side.
It was Meyer, Bugsy and Lucky who were often seen together at Ratner’s, noshing on kosher food and quietly discussing their “business.” In a 1997 interview with the NY Daily News, Abraham Reistein, former manager of Ratner’s, reminisced: “we didn’t approach, unless asked,” he remarked, noting that Lansky often ordered “baked whitefish” in addition to cheese blintzes. According to Reistein, if one of Meyer’s bodyguards would show up with blood on his clothes, a waiter would help to burn the evidence in the incinerator. Ratner’s was Lansky’s second home, and people there liked him… so much so that the back room of the restaurant was turned into “Lansky’s Lounge” for a short period of time.
Bugsy Siegel, NYPD mug shot, April 12, 1928. Wikimedia Commons
With his pal Bugsy, Lansky would go on with to become the father of modern day casinos, gaining a reputation as one of the most powerful men in the country. All of this, fueled by Ratner’s blintzes. I couldn’t help but be curious… what did these famous cheese blintzes taste like?
A couple of years ago, I stumbled across a now out-of-print paperback cookbook from 1975 called “The World Famous Ratner’s Meatless Cookbook,” written by Judith Gethers and Elizabeth Lefft. Of course I had to add it to my collection. Here’s a scan of the cover:
In a section called “Dairy Dishes,” the very first recipe that appears is… you guessed it… cheese blintzes! You know I had to try them, so we can find out firsthand why Meyer, Lucky and Bugsy loved these fried, cheesy delights.
I tested the recipe a few times, and had to tweak the cooking process slightly to make it more foolproof. The Ratner’s blintz batter can be somewhat finicky, especially for those who aren’t familiar with the process. If this is your first time making blintzes, you may want to start with my Cheese Blintzes recipe instead of this one– it’s a little more forgiving and easier to work with. Or you can make the blintzes exactly as written here. The detailed instructions and step-by-step photos should keep you on track.
The Ratner’s cookbook recipe calls for frying the blintzes in clarified butter. To learn how to make clarified butter, click here. I tripled the amount of butter required for frying the blintzes, because in my large skillet the original amount only browned the top and bottom of the blintzes, not the sides. If you’re using a standard-sized skillet, 1 cup should be enough– you want the butter deep enough to brown the blintzes evenly. If you’re worried about the extra calories, these blintzes will cook just as well in grapeseed oil or another oil with a high smoke point. Vegetable-based oils will be less prone to splattering, but the clarified butter gives a nice flavor. For each blintz, I used 3 tablespoons of blintz batter rather than the 2 called for in the cookbook. Otherwise, this recipe is as it appears in the book, along with my own tips and tricks to help you along the way.
Do you have memories of Ratner’s Restaurant? Share them in the comments below!
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Ratner's Cheese Blintzes
Ingredients
Ingredients
- 2 cups all purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 4 large eggs, room temperature
- 2 cups water
- 1 cup clarified butter (learn how here)
- 1 pound farmer's cheese
- 2 large egg yolks
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- Sour cream, applesauce, or your favorite blintz toppings (optional)
NOTES
Instructions
- In a mixing bowl, sift together flour and salt. In another mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and water till thoroughly blended. Beat the dry ingredients into the wet, whisking thoroughly till the batter is completely smooth with no lumps.Grease a small nonstick skillet and heat between medium and high. The skillet is ready when a drop of water sizzles on the surface. If the water pops or jumps out of the pan, the skillet it too hot—let it cool slightly before starting. If the water sizzles, it’s at the perfect temperature.
- For each blintz, pour roughly 3 tbsp of batter into the skillet, then quickly tilt the pan in a circular motion till the batter coats the entire bottom of the skillet, making a very thin, crepe-like pancake. The batter needs to be added all at once, otherwise it will cook before you've had a chance to swirl it. I measure it out by using a 1/4 cup measuring cup and filling it 3/4 full. It may take you a few tries to get the hang of the process-- proceed with patience!Let each blintz cook for 75-90 seconds until the bottom of the blintz is very lightly golden. You can tell it's ready by touching the center of the pancake's surface-- it should be completely dry to the touch. Do not flip the blintz to cook the other side, and do not let the edges get too brown or dry. Use a spatula to take the blintz out of the pan and place it on a plate.
- Keep the blintzes separated by pieces of parchment paper, wax paper, or paper towels. This will help keep them from sticking together.
- When all of the blintzes are cooked, let them cool while you create your filling. Rinse and dry one of the mixing bowls. Combine the farmer's cheese, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla in the mixing bowl, then use a fork to mix ingredients well.
- Note: Farmer's cheese (also known as pot cheese), while once popular, can be difficult to track down nowadays. It is primarily sold in kosher markets, and has a consistency somewhere between queso panela and ricotta cheese. If you don't have access to farmer's cheese, try using my alternate cheese blintz filling recipe on TheShiksa.com... or use an equivalent amount of ricotta cheese that has been very well drained, using cheese cloth to squeeze and remove as much liquid as possible.
- Now you’re going to stuff and wrap up your blintzes! Place a blintz with the lightly golden side facing down, the less cooked side facing upward. Put 2 tbsp of filling on the lower part of the blintz, about an inch from the edge.
- Fold the lower edge of the blintz up over the filling.
- Fold the sides of the blintz inward, as though you’re folding an envelope.
- Roll the blintz up and over the filling like a burrito, tucking the edges in as you roll.
- When the blintzes are stuffed and rolled, you are ready to fry them. Pour 1 cup of clarified butter or grapeseed oil into a larger nonstick skillet (12 inches) and heat over medium until hot. Do not let the butter or oil turn brown or start smoking. Cook the blintzes in batches of 4 or 5--this will give you space to turn them easily in the pan. Carefully place the stuffed blintzes flap-side down into the hot oil. The blintzes should fry for 1 ½ to 2 minutes until the bottom of each blintz is golden brown and crispy.
- Turn the blintzes carefully using a spatula and/or tongs, then fry for an additional 1 ½ - 2 minutes. Blintzes should be evenly browned on both sides.
- Let the fried blintzes drain on a layer of paper towels.
- Serve blintzes warm. They can be served as-is or topped with fruit topping, sour cream, applesauce, whipped cream or maple syrup. Apparently Meyer Lansky liked his topped with sour cream.
Nutrition
tried this recipe?
Let us know in the comments!
Research Sources
Gethers, Judith and Lefft, Elizabeth (1975). Ratner’s Meatless Cookbook. Ballantine Books, Random House, New York, NY.
LowerManhattan.info: Ratner’s Closes, for the Last Time. December 16, 2004.
McAlary, Mike (1997). “Old Mobster’s Lounge Act Meyer Lansky Still Able to Make Money.” New York Daily News, February 28.
Mendelsohn, Joyce (2009). The Lower East Side Remembered and Revisited: A History and Guide to a Legendary New York Neighborhood. Columbia University Press, US.
Montague, Art (2005). Meyer Lansky: The Shadowy Exploits of New York’s Master Manipulator. Heritage House Publishing Co. Ltd. US.
hi tory why do you use water in the blintz crepe when most other recipes call for milk? pls advise! tysm! love this posting and in the middle of making this recipe right now!!!
This is Ratner’s recipe, not mine. You’d have to ask them. 🙂 If you want one with milk, try this: https://toriavey.com/toris-kitchen/shiksa-blintzes/
Loived your story about Meyer Lansky and Ratner’s. My married name is Rattner with two t’s. I’ve eaten in the restaurant a few times. It was wonderful. One day I was shopping nearby with my mother-in-law and we stopped in to the restaurant. My mother-in-law said hey my name is Rattner, can we get a free meal? They laughed and said no as the owner is named Levitz. We all laughed and ate there anyway.
I AM 81 YEARS OLD OF UKRAINIAN DESCENT. I AM MAKING THESE EXACT BLINTZES TODAY. THEY HAVE ALWAYS BEEN OUR FAVORITE. HAVING LIVED ON THE LOWER EAST SIDE (7TH ST. BETWEEN 2ND AND 3RD AVE), I AM TOTALLY FAMILIAR WITH RATNER’S. IF FACT MY FRIENDS GRANDMOTHER WORKED THERE AS A COOK.
I HAVE THIS RECIPE FROM MY MOTHER, ON A PIECE OF PAPER WHICH IS TURNING BROWN, FROM THE 70 OR SO YEARS AGO THAT SHE HAD SAVED IT ON. WE MISS THE CITY, BUT CONTINUE LIVING WITH FOND MEMORIES OF GREAT TIMES, GREAT FRIENDS AND TERRIFIC ETHNIC FOODS.
Hi I’m Michele Gelboin, from San Diego, but at this moment caring for Stella, my father’s first wife. I lived with my father Tzvi Hersh, alav hashalom, aka Harry V. Gelboin, a lab chief at NIH, in the DC area. My father had been born and raised in Chicago, so naturally he had a very negative opinion of New York Jewish life. But whenever we went to New York, he took us to Ratner’s, with great relish. I remember the joy and feeling of comfort. We would also go to Moshe Peking, a kosher Chinese restaurant, where my father would order the whole sweet and sour dish, daring any of his daughters to eat the eye (none of us ever took him up on that offer, and I don’t recall him eating it either). My father would bemoan the lack of a kosher restaurant in Washington, DC. Incidentally, my father was raised in a frum, Orthodox family. His father was a chosid, and my father was associated with Rabbi Tzvi Hersh Maisels in Chicago. My mother, raised in Gloversville, NY, was from a secular Jewish family, with very little Jewish observance, and this was a major factor in her leaving him in 1959. Now, I am proud to be reintroducing her to all those things she left behind, and I’m excited to try the recipe. Thank you so very much for your beautiful write-up, your research and care, I read it all the my mother, asleep in her chair with some dementia…
So glad this post brought back nice memories for you! Sending good thoughts to both you and Stella. 🙂
I too loved Ratner’s blintzes and can’t wait to try your recipe. Anyone living in Florida may be able to get Farmer cheese at Publix Super Market.
Enjoying this site so much. Can I freeze the blitzes? Before or after frying?
Yes, they should freeze well. Wrap in wax paper, place on a sheet pan, freeze until solid, and then place them in a freezer-safe container.
Thank you for including the nutrition facts as part of the “print” button. Usually I end up copying and pasting the recipe, then doing the same with the nutrition facts in order to have both together. It matters since I’m cooking for a diabetic and try not to serve “mystery” food that we have to guess about. Thanks again.
My blintzes wouldn’t stay folded when I cooked them. Taste-wise, they were delicious. However, next time I will use egg yolk to bind the blintze crepe.
Hi tori!! Not a bad recipe…!!! The only thing I’d vary a bit is the thickness of the crepe batter.. since it is rolled, perhaps a little thinner. I adjusted it and came out great.
Brought back memories of that area… Ratner’s was always buzzing and you’d always run into friends there. A warm atmosphere.. and not far from gus’ pickles.
Enjoyed the recipe!
Hi:
I’ve been making cheese blintzes for 60 years. I use farmer’s cheese that I make at home. It’s easy. Just heat a half gallon of whole milk (not ultra pasteurized) to 185 deg F and add ¼ cup white vinegar and stir. Cover pot and wait 10 minutes. The milk protein will coagulate as curds. Strain the curds and this is farmer’s cheese. You can use the whey (the liquid left in the pot) in baking. This cheese is dryer than ricotta and doesn’t need to be drained. You get about 1 ½ cups of cheese from a ½ gallon of milk.
I have never made blintzes, though I know I can make them in my sleep having watched my mother make them countless times, as I would help her when I was growing up. I finally had the hankering to make them, and wanted to get the right recipe. But all the recipes I looked at were not what my mother made, that is, until I stumbled upon the real recipe here. Then I remembered when I was in Rhode Iland last year visiting my 97 year old god mother that I had photographed all of her recipes she had hidden away on 3×5 cards. When I went back to see if she had a recipe for blintzes, sure enough she had it, and it was nearly exact to this recipe. It’s funny how you can remember certain things when you were just a child. All the recipes I have been looking at show cooking the crepes on both sides, but I distinctly remember my mother cooking them on one side only, and using the farmers cheese. Also, thank you for the story of Myer Lansky and his love of blintzes, and Ratner’s.
Great memories Clark!
Teaching my 16 year old to make blintzes for break the fast. The step by step photos are helping us. They look great, however, I would double the cheese part as our recipe made more of the “Bletlach- crepe” than we had filling. However, we had a wonderful dessert of nutella crepes.
What wonderful memories. My dad, Bill Deutsch aka “major” was one of Meyers partners and dearest friends, finally decided at fifteen I could be trusted to eat and keep my mouth shut! We then walk over to Katz,s for chopped liver, corned beef and pastrami.Uncle Meyer would always give me fifty dollars and Uncle Bennie, when he was ther gave me one hundred but the real score war Uncle Charlie who peeked off quite a few hundreds. I used to love those Sunday’s. I am 75! Now but I will never forget my dad telling them it’s too much for a kid and the “uncles” saying he’s a great kid. Thanks for making me feel young again.
This made me smile Jerry! Great memories.
Around 1980, my 82 year old mother took the train from Hartford to NY. I met her and took her to Ratners where we had gone when I was a child. They brought a basket of rolls to the table as was the custom. My mother took a bite from a roll and immediately said “this isn’t Ratner’s” I said sure it is but she insisted. They certainly were not as good as the Jewish rolls I had as a child
As a child in the late sixties and early seventies, my father, Jacob Vaknin, would take me to Ratners. He was a waiter there from 1966 until 1974, when one of his customers from New Jersey who had just moved south suggested he visit Atlanta. Three months later we moved and those visits are now treasured memories. My father was one of the few young waiters from Israel having learned his skills on the transatlantic liner Shalom. I remember well the cheesecake my father would bring home. To this day I love real new york cheesecake. The best cheesecake I have found in Albany Georgia where I live is at the Publix bakery.
My father still tells his stories of mafia boss Joe Colombo being his customer at Ratners just before being gunned down at a Columbus day parade and stories of celebrities he met. He still has their autographs on the back of photographs of mine he used to carry in his wallet. He went back to visit in the 90’s a couple times before they closed. Although he left Ratners in 1974, he had customers asking for him for several years after he left. I was very sad to hear they had closed back in 2004.
I was searching for instructions on soaking dry chickpeas when I came upon your blog and now it is bookmarked for further investigation. I lived in New York throughout the 80’s, in the Lower Eastside and Katz’s and Ratners were two of my favourite restaurants. I even managed to pick up the Ratners Cookbook before they closed down over ten years ago. As a young starving artist (historically Jewish btw) I often went to Ratners for a filling and inexpensive meal. I particularly loved the mushroom varnishkes and the cold borsht soup with sour cream. I plan to try the quinoa risotto soon and to visit your site for more great tips and stories. Great job.
Thank you Annastine!
I have been told not just once but several times that I am Meyer Lanskys granddaughter. For many years I have been trying to find out the truth. I was orphaned at 16 by my mothers suicide. I have pictures of my father,Lucky and bugs hugging in my fathers supper club in NYC. I do know my grandmother also was from Grado Poland. I do not talk to any relatives anymore after the suicide and they refuse to give me information.
I enjoyed your research and article VERY much.
Please contact me if youcare to
NO PROBLEM
As a child I often went my favorite was the cherry blintzes. I once attempted them— the actual blintzes were almost impossible to make 🥲 I will try your way- w suggestions. I literally day dream about them— they were seriously heavenly!