It’s glorious, that first bite of a warm pastrami sandwich on freshly baked rye. If you’ve ever eaten pastrami at a great Jewish deli, you know what I’m talking about. That moist, tender meat topped with spicy mustard is enough to make almost anyone swoon. When my husband and I took the Queen Mary from London to New York several years ago, we docked at 6:00am and found that we were hungry. Our first stop? Katz’s Deli for a pastrami on rye. It didn’t matter that the sun was barely up. Pastrami is good any time, day or night. When the appetite strikes, you must feed it. Trouble is, many of us don’t live close to a great Jewish deli, and mediocre pastrami can be SO disappointing. What can you do? Make it at home, that’s what!
I’ve tried my hand at homemade pastrami several times with varying degrees of success. It wasn’t until a publisher sent me a review copy of The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home that I finally found a recipe worth blogging about. In their fabulous cookbook, authors Nick Zukin and Michael C. Zusman give workable home kitchen recipes for many Jewish deli favorites. In addition to uncovering the secrets of making these classic recipes at home, Nick and Michael delve into the traditional techniques used in deli kitchens. They also include nostalgic profiles of the most famous deli establishments in North America, including Katz’s in New York and Mile End in Montreal.
Nick Zukin helped to open Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen in Portland, one of the first Jewish delicatessens “focused on producing artisanal eats.” Michael C. Zusman is a state court judge who also does freelance food and restaurant writing. His bread recipes are currently used at Kenny & Zuke’s.
Deli-style pastrami emerged in New York during the late 19th century and remains a best seller on most deli menus. Because of its lengthy and laborious process, very few delis still cure and carve their own pastrami. Zukin and Zusman have whittled down the process to a very simple, doable recipe that requires relatively little effort. After making a simple brine the meat cures in the refrigerator for 5 days, then it’s rubbed with a spice blend and left to cook in a slow oven for a few hours. According to the authors:
“Delicatessen aficionados might cringe at the idea of making pastrami in the oven, since wood smoking is supposed to be the customary cooking method. At least that’s what they think. In truth, some of the most lauded pastrami and smoked meat involve no wood smoke at all. In his must read chronicle, Save the Deli, David Sax reveals that the smoky flavor in commercially produced pastrami comes from fat dripping down and sizzling on the gas element of the large ovens that are used.”
Side note: I love Save the Deli, I actually covered it on the blog a few years back.
To add that smoky flavor to the brisket, Zukin and Zusman use a hefty dose of smoked paprika (one of my favorite spices!). The result is delicious, quality pastrami hot and fresh from your own oven. My house smelled just like a deli while it was cooking. The flavor and texture were delightful– tender and flavorful. I tested the recipe multiple times just to make sure it wasn’t a fluke. It’s not. This is some killer pastrami.
I stayed pretty true to Zukin and Zusman’s recipe, though I did adapt it slightly by cutting back on the salt. My first test round was extremely salty– good for a bite or two, but if I’d eaten a few slices I would have puffed up like a balloon. The next testing round I cut the kosher salt in the brine in half. I thought it might be too much and that I’d have to add some back in, but half the salt actually provided the perfect flavor. My five dinner guests taste-tested it for me, and they all agreed that the lower sodium brine it was plenty salty. So I present the recipe with the kosher salt halved; if you prefer to try it as written in the cookbook, use 2 cups of kosher salt in the brine.
Update: Nick Zukin let me know in the comments that they used Diamond large crystal kosher salt, which has less salt per cup than Morton’s. I didn’t realize that salt content varies from brand to brand. I am updating my recipe instructions to reflect the brand of salt we used. Thanks to Nick for the heads up!
Don’t be daunted by the long prep time, the preparation is actually very simple. Most of the time here is spent on curing the pastrami in the refrigerator. After that it’s no more difficult than roasting a brisket on a rack. The results are totally worth the wait. I have to hand it to Nick Zukin and Michael Zusman, this is a genius recipe. Their book has a lot of other great recipes for Jewish deli classics including Classic Deli Sandwich Rye, Onion-Poppy Seed Bialys and Cabbage and Smoked Meat Borscht. If you love deli food like I do, check out The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home. You’ll be glad you did!
What’s your favorite place to get a hot pastrami on rye?
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Homemade Pastrami
Ingredients
- 3 quarts water
- 3/4 cup Morton's coarse kosher salt (178 grams) OR 1 1/3 cup Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt (181 grams) - these two brands are NOT interchangeable, the same weight provides two very different cup measurements
- 2 teaspoons pink curing salt (12 grams) - Pink curing salt is also known as Prague Mix #1, Instacure #1 or Curing Salt #1 - NOT Himalayan pink salt. See safety note below.
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons pickling spice
- 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoon whole yellow mustard seeds
- 4 cloves garlic (minced)
- 5 pounds beef brisket
Spice Rub Ingredients
- 1/4 cup ground coriander
- 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons smoked paprika
NOTES
Instructions
- To make the brine, fill a medium to large stockpot with 3 quarts water. Add the kosher and pink salts, granulated sugar, pickling spice, coriander and mustard seeds, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often to fully dissolve the salt and sugar in the water. Immediately remove the pot from the heat once the brine boils.Add 3 quarts ice cold water to a 2-gallon or larger food-safe container that will fit in your refrigerator (you can also use a strong sealing 2-gallon marination bag - double bag for extra insurance). Pour the brine into the container and place it uncovered in the refrigerator until completely cool. You can also divide the brine evenly between two separate containers so that it will fit better in the refrigerator.
- Trim the fat from the brisket until the fat layer is about 1/4 inch thick.
- If necessary, cut the brisket in half so that it will fit into your container(s).
- Submerge the brisket in the cooled brine.Allow the brisket to brine in the refrigerator for 10 to 12 days, flipping it daily top to bottom and stirring the brine. Make sure that if any of the brisket sides are touching one another you regularly turn them away from each other to expose all of the sides to the brine.
- To cook the brisket, pour 4 cups water into the bottom of a 12 by 15 inch roasting pan. Set a rack inside the pan and place the brisket on the rack, fatty side down.
- To make the spice rub, mix together the coriander, pepper and paprika in a small bowl. Evenly rub 1/4 cup of the mixture onto the top of the brisket. Then flip the brisket and rub the remaining spice mixture onto the fatty side. Allow the brisket to come to room temperature, about 2 hours.
- Preheat the oven to 300 degrees with a rack low enough to fit the pan holding the brisket. Tightly cover the brisket and pan with a double layer of aluminum foil.
- Bake until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 200 degrees, about 1 hour per pound or 5 hours total. Start checking internal temp at 3 hours and periodically every 20-30 minutes or so to avoid overcooking.
- Without trimming the fat, carve the pastrami into 1/4 inch thick slices, or cut as thin as possible without the meat falling apart. Keep tightly wrapped, or in a sealed container in the fridge, for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
- SAFETY NOTE: handle the pink curing salt with care and keep it out of reach of children. It is used in pastrami and other cured meats to kill bacteria, prevent botulism and add flavor. However it is extremely toxic if ingested directly; in fact, it's colored pink to prevent people from mistaking it for regular salt. When used with care in recipes like this, it is very safe and necessary for proper flavor and food safety. That said, you should know the risks and keep the curing salt properly labeled and out of the reach of children.
Nutrition
tried this recipe?
Let us know in the comments!
Heidi Kleinman says
If I get a larger brisket do I double the brineing liquid & ingredients?
Also, can I cook this in my wood pellet grill/smoker?
Thanks, can’t wait to try it!!
paula a arminas fussell says
I’m making my 2nd one as I type! This recipe is awesome!
Tori Avey says
Glad to hear it!
David S. says
Hi Tori,
I believe I may have commented on this a while back. I’ve used your recipe many times to make pastrami. My brother recently sent me a recipe for a spice rub that he found somewhere (he doesn’t remember now), but I tried it last week and I have to say I think it makes the pastrami taste much more like a good NY deli pastrami. I hope you don’t mind me posting it here. I would LOVE for you to try it and let me know what you think. This was by far one of the best pastrami’s I’ve ever tasted. I wanted to smoke it but unfortunately it was raining the only opportunity I had to do this.
SPICE RUB FROM ANOTHER RECIPE:
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
2 tablespoons lightly packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
(Toast the coriander and mustard seeds in a medium skillet over
Medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and lightly
Browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to cool.
Add the cooled seeds, sugar, paprika, salt, garlic and cloves to a
Spice grinder and grind to the texture of dry sand. Transfer to a
Small bowl and stir in the pepper. Keep in an airtight container
At room temperature in a dry place away from sunlight for up to 3
Months).
Karen R Kelleher says
I used this recipe here in blog AND the recipe here in comments. Both are great.
Lori F says
Just made my first pastrami. Used you rub recipe as it looked like my preferred flavour profile based on my tastes. OMG I am in heaven. Homemade pastrami is going to be a regular thing in my house.
Now I need to make a loaf of marble rye tonight!!!!!!! FANTASTIC!
Joan Bloch says
I made the pastrami a few months ago. It was excellent.!! Making it again for company.
Thanks so much for posting this fabulous recipe.
Joan Bloch
Jana Trevino says
I want to make this recipe when I go visit my son in Seattle. We will be there for 6 days, so I want to start the process here in Texas. Can I freeze the meat after it is brined? And finish the process when we get to his house? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Tori Avey says
Hi Jana, that’s a good question – honestly I’m not sure. Perhaps another reader will have some feedback for you.
eric says
I often corn more brisket than I can use at one time and don’t have a good recipe for long term brining. I have frozen the raw corned beef without a problem many times. It actually makes corning more reasonable for me.
Abdel says
Hi , I am using your recipe for the first time. Just to be clear, after making the brine is it diluted by adding another 3 quarts of cold water?
Tori Avey says
Correct – the hot brine is added to the ice cold brine to cool it down quickly.
Teresa says
So good! I had a 2.5 lb brisket and used the full amount of brine. I used the glass lid to a casserole to keep it submerged and flipped it every day. It never reached 190, and I pulled it out at 170 and let it rest. Sliced it with a Cutco salmon knife and served on the smitten kitchen NY rye with Kosciusko mustard and Swiss. Omg it is so good I want to hide it from my husband.
Ryan C Malone says
This looks stellar, but I have to ask for clarification on the nutrition info. 311% of sodium per serving? This is heartbreaking. Not a dig on your recipe, I just didn’t know that my favorite sandwich has always wanted to kill me.
I’m still going to make it, though. I’d rather die happy.
Tori Avey says
Hi Ryan! I’m sorry for any confusion. My recipe software auto-calculates nutrition information, and here it is taking the 1 cup of salt for brine and including that in the per-serving nutritional information. Since I am not a nutritionist, I’m not sure how to correct this, because I’m not exactly sure how much salt is absorbed by the meat during the process. That’s why my nutritional information has a disclaimer – I provide it because people ask for it, but I am relying on a computer to calculate the totals, and they may not always be accurate. While pastrami is surely not a low sodium food, I think it’s safe to say that 311% is not quite accurate. 🙂
Rideswithscissors says
The amount of salt is important, and almost all processed and restaurant or deli foods are too salty for me. But in a recipe one must realize the difference between, say, kosher salt and table salt. The type of salt should be stated in the recipe. However, I think that most people use table salt, and understand “salt” as such.
Sharon Smith says
Great recipe, thanks for sharing.
Dave says
Hi, I’ve made this a few times, I love it. Thank you for the recipe. One of my favorite sandwiches is the #19 at Langers Deli in LA. Of course it’s impossible to get it exactly right at home, but this recipe at least gets me close enough to satisfy my cravings between California trips. Quick question, is there any danger in brining for more than 5 days (like 6 or 7). When I start the brining process, I intend to cook it on day 5 but sometimes something comes up where I want to push it a day or two. So far I just go ahead and cook it on day 5 and just reheat the next day.
Tori Avey says
Hi Dave! That’s a great question. I’ve only ever made this according to recipe so I couldn’t say for certain… I’m not a curing expert and I wouldn’t want to steer you wrong. You might reach out to Nick Zukin, who wrote the recipe. I’m sure he could give you guidance.
David S. says
This is a bit late for you Dave, but I just finished making a pastrami and it brined for about 6-1/2 days and it was fine. I didn’t notice any difference from any of the times I’ve made this recipe in the past and went by the 5 days.
andrea says
Hi tori, I want to make this recipe this Sunday but would be cutting the brining time short from 5 days to 4. Would this be fine? Is there any way to speed the process (like injecting some of the brine in the meat) ?
Tori Avey says
This is a great question, to be honest I’ve never tried to rush it, so not sure… and I’m really not a curing expert, so I don’t want to steer you wrong. Maybe another reader will have a suggestion. Sorry I can’t be of more help here!
Chau Marie says
I am glad to see the review for this book, however this recipe is almost identical to the recipe in The New Yiddish Kitchen. There is only so much you can do to a brisket….
Here are two other books you should really look at:
1.) The New Yiddish Kitchen by Simone Miller and Jennifer Robins
2.) The 2nd Ave. Deli Cookbook by Sharon Lebewol and Rena Bulkin
Tori Avey says
It would seem that The New Yiddish Kitchen (which I do not have a copy of – but I see it was published in 2016) may have sourced their pastrami recipe from The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home (2013), which was actually published three years prior. If it’s that similar, I do hope they offered credit to the original recipe from Nick Zukin. I do have a copy of the 2nd Ave. Deli Cookbook, and I have enjoyed it through the years. It’s one of my favorite delis.
D.B. says
I’m no expert, not even an amateur really. I used this recipe to make my first ever cured meat. I am a huge pastrami fan and thought, what the heck, I’ll give it a shot and the pastrami came out awesome!
I see someone thought it was too salty so I rinsed and soaked the brisket after brining and next time I think I’ll just rinse it because it was more sweet than salty. I’m thinking the rinse only approach will be just right. Thanks for sharing!
Lauretta says
This turned out to be absolutely delicious! Will definitely make it again. Thank you!
Leo Higgins says
Recipe looks good but in my experience real Jewish pastrami is smoked after removal from the brining and pickling. After that is is simmered or steamed no hotter than about 190F, then it is sliced and put on rye. Can you comment, please. Thank you.
Tori Avey says
Hi Leo, if you had read the post above you would see that this is addressed in depth – “In truth, some of the most lauded pastrami and smoked meat involve no wood smoke at all. In his must read chronicle, Save the Deli, David Sax reveals that the smoky flavor in commercially produced pastrami comes from fat dripping down and sizzling on the gas element of the large ovens that are used.” Also, please note that this is a recipe for homemade pastrami – most home cooks do not have a smoker in their arsenal. Creating deli-like pastrami with standard home cooking equipment was the goal here.
Rick says
Thank you so much it was delicious. My NY friends loved it.
Joan says
I made the pastrami. It was excellent. Thank you. It was just amazing how the brisket turns pink from the brine.
Derek says
If I have a smaller piece of brisket, about 2 pounds, can I cut the brine recipe in half?
Thanks
Allen says
I want to make sure that 6 quarts of water is what is actually needed here…seems like a lot once I put it all together. Meat is 3 days in and no change in color that I was expecting…should be pinkish, right? Like pastrami…? Meat is brown at this point…yes, I used the right type of curing salt.
jim sigillito says
Havent tried this particular cure recipe yet – but I have wet cured corned beef/pastrami several times before. The outside of the meat tends to look tan/brownish bit the inside will have the pinkish to purplish look. If you used pink curing salt you should be fine – if your worried just make a slice into the meat and see if its pink on the inside – it wont hurt it at all!
Allen Adkins says
OK, this came out just fine with the amount of water it called for – meat stayed brown to gray in color after 5 days, but that is normal…the inside is very pink. Came out of the oven and tasted great…but just a little too salty. I’ve read around the net that it is good practice to soak the meat in tap water for anywhere from 30 minutes to 8 hours after taking it out of the brine to make it less so…maybe something to think about.