It’s glorious, that first bite of a warm pastrami sandwich on freshly baked rye. If you’ve ever eaten pastrami at a great Jewish deli, you know what I’m talking about. That moist, tender meat topped with spicy mustard is enough to make almost anyone swoon.
When my husband and I took the Queen Mary from London to New York several years ago, we docked at 6:00am and found that we were hungry. Our first stop? Katz’s Deli for a pastrami on rye. It didn’t matter that the sun was barely up. Pastrami is good any time, day or night. When the appetite strikes, you must feed it. Trouble is, many of us don’t live close to a great Jewish deli, and mediocre pastrami can be SO disappointing. What can you do? Make it at home, that’s what!
I’ve tried my hand at homemade pastrami several times with varying degrees of success. It wasn’t until a publisher sent me a review copy of The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home that I finally found a recipe worth blogging about.
In their fabulous cookbook, authors Nick Zukin and Michael C. Zusman give workable home kitchen recipes for many Jewish deli favorites. In addition to uncovering the secrets of making these classic recipes at home, Nick and Michael delve into the traditional techniques used in deli kitchens. They also include nostalgic profiles of the most famous deli establishments in North America, including Katz’s in New York and Mile End in Montreal.
Nick Zukin helped to open Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen in Portland, one of the first Jewish delicatessens “focused on producing artisanal eats.” Michael C. Zusman is a state court judge who also does freelance food and restaurant writing. His bread recipes are currently used at Kenny & Zuke’s.
Deli-style pastrami emerged in New York during the late 19th century and remains a best seller on most deli menus. Because of its lengthy and laborious process, very few delis still cure and carve their own pastrami. Zukin and Zusman have whittled down the process to a very simple, doable recipe that requires relatively little effort.
After making a simple brine the meat cures in the refrigerator, then it’s rubbed with a spice blend and left to cook in a slow oven for a few hours. According to the authors:
“Delicatessen aficionados might cringe at the idea of making pastrami in the oven, since wood smoking is supposed to be the customary cooking method. At least that’s what they think. In truth, some of the most lauded pastrami and smoked meat involve no wood smoke at all. In his must read chronicle, Save the Deli, David Sax reveals that the smoky flavor in commercially produced pastrami comes from fat dripping down and sizzling on the gas element of the large ovens that are used.”
Side note: I love Save the Deli, I actually covered it on the blog a few years back.
To add that smoky flavor to the brisket, Zukin and Zusman use a hefty dose of smoked paprika (one of my favorite spices!). The result is delicious, quality pastrami hot and fresh from your own oven. My house smelled just like a deli while it was cooking. The flavor and texture were delightful– tender and flavorful. I tested the recipe multiple times just to make sure it wasn’t a fluke. It’s not. This is some killer pastrami.
I stayed pretty true to Zukin and Zusman’s recipe, though I did adapt it slightly by cutting back on the salt. My first test round was extremely salty– good for a bite or two, but if I’d eaten a few slices I would have puffed up like a balloon. The next testing round I cut the kosher salt in the brine in half. I thought it might be too much and that I’d have to add some back in, but half the salt actually provided the perfect flavor. My five dinner guests taste-tested it for me, and they all agreed that the lower sodium brine it was plenty salty. So I present the recipe with the kosher salt halved; if you prefer to try it as written in the cookbook, use 2 cups of kosher salt in the brine.
Update: Nick Zukin let me know in the comments that they used Diamond large crystal kosher salt, which has less salt per cup than Morton’s. I didn’t realize that salt content varies from brand to brand. I am updating my recipe instructions to reflect the brand of salt we used. Thanks to Nick for the heads up!
Don’t be daunted by the long prep time, the preparation is actually very simple. Most of the time here is spent on curing the pastrami in the refrigerator. After that it’s no more difficult than roasting a brisket on a rack. The results are totally worth the wait.
I have to hand it to Nick Zukin and Michael Zusman, this is a genius recipe. Their book has a lot of other great recipes for Jewish deli classics including Classic Deli Sandwich Rye, Onion-Poppy Seed Bialys and Cabbage and Smoked Meat Borscht. If you love deli food like I do, check out The Artisan Jewish Deli at Home. You’ll be glad you did!
What’s your favorite place to get a hot pastrami on rye?
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Homemade Pastrami
Ingredients
- 3 quarts water
- 3/4 cup Morton's coarse kosher salt (178 grams) OR 1 1/3 cup Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt (181 grams) - these two brands are NOT interchangeable, the same weight provides two very different cup measurements
- 2 teaspoons pink curing salt (12 grams) - Pink curing salt is also known as Prague Mix #1, Instacure #1 or Curing Salt #1 - NOT Himalayan pink salt. See safety note below.
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons pickling spice
- 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoon whole yellow mustard seeds
- 4 cloves garlic (minced)
- 5 pounds beef brisket
Spice Rub Ingredients
- 1/4 cup ground coriander
- 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons smoked paprika
Instructions
- To make the brine, fill a medium to large stockpot with 3 quarts water. Add the kosher and pink salts, granulated sugar, pickling spice, coriander and mustard seeds, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often to fully dissolve the salt and sugar in the water. Immediately remove the pot from the heat once the brine boils.Add 3 quarts ice cold water to a 2-gallon or larger food-safe container that will fit in your refrigerator (you can also use a strong sealing 2-gallon marination bag - double bag for extra insurance). Pour the brine into the container and place it uncovered in the refrigerator until completely cool. You can also divide the brine evenly between two separate containers so that it will fit better in the refrigerator.
- Trim the fat from the brisket until the fat layer is about 1/4 inch thick.
- If necessary, cut the brisket in half so that it will fit into your container(s).
- Submerge the brisket in the cooled brine.Allow the brisket to brine in the refrigerator for 10 to 12 days, flipping it daily top to bottom and stirring the brine. Make sure that if any of the brisket sides are touching one another you regularly turn them away from each other to expose all of the sides to the brine.
- To cook the brisket, pour 4 cups water into the bottom of a 12 by 15 inch roasting pan. Set a rack inside the pan and place the brisket on the rack, fatty side down.
- To make the spice rub, mix together the coriander, pepper and paprika in a small bowl. Evenly rub 1/4 cup of the mixture onto the top of the brisket. Then flip the brisket and rub the remaining spice mixture onto the fatty side. Allow the brisket to come to room temperature, about 2 hours.
- Preheat the oven to 300 degrees with a rack low enough to fit the pan holding the brisket. Tightly cover the brisket and pan with a double layer of aluminum foil.
- Bake until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 200 degrees, about 1 hour per pound or 5 hours total. Start checking internal temp at 3 hours and periodically every 20-30 minutes or so to avoid overcooking.
- Without trimming the fat, carve the pastrami into 1/4 inch thick slices, or cut as thin as possible without the meat falling apart. Keep tightly wrapped, or in a sealed container in the fridge, for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
- SAFETY NOTE: handle the pink curing salt with care and keep it out of reach of children. It is used in pastrami and other cured meats to kill bacteria, prevent botulism and add flavor. However it is extremely toxic if ingested directly; in fact, it's colored pink to prevent people from mistaking it for regular salt. When used with care in recipes like this, it is very safe and necessary for proper flavor and food safety. That said, you should know the risks and keep the curing salt properly labeled and out of the reach of children.
NOTES
Nutrition
tried this recipe?
Let us know in the comments!
You can do away with the pink curing salt, and use celery salt. Celery salt has natural occuring nitrates.
Regular pink curing salt has been linked to increased risk of heart disease and bowel cancer.
Okay, I’ll try it this way… Recipe looks great and I will try it but, I need a perfect (strong and black) rye bread recipe. I want one with so much rye it almost embarrasses the pastrami.
Then, perhaps, we can dream about a spicy mustard recipe?
Ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Larry
This is an easy-to-do, superb recipe for the most delicious pastrami I’ve had since I lived back east in NYC many, many years ago. I didn’t alter the recipe at all, and it came out just right. Piled high on rye with a slice of Swiss, a dab of mayo and hot mustard….that’s memorable goodness. Thanks.
I am just checking on the curing salt that is highly toxic, you have in your recipe 1/4 cup of curing salt / But for 5LB of meat they call for 1 teaspoon or 25LBs 1OZ Is you recipe right or a typo if a typo could you adjust it please
Thanks Am
It is not a typo, using the 1/4 cup results in a terrific pastrami, however you don’t necessarily have to use the full amount. The recipe author Nick Zukin has answered this previously, here is his answer to a previous comment – “Use as little as you want. Technically, you don’t have to use any if you’re going to cook it immediately and refrigerate it properly during the curing process. There are several factors that play a part: amount/thickness of the meat, volume of brine, and time to cure. It may very well work fine.”
It is the correct ammount. Because it is a brine, the meat will not suck up all of the salt but only the percentage of it. The average amount it takes up is about 4% if it is merely soaked. You can get a better measurement of how much was taken up by the meat by weighing the meat before and after brining. So don’t worry about the quantity, it seems excesive but it is not.
I’ve been looking for how to make pastrami and I found it. Only problem is the measurements as I’m from England and live here. The stuff from supermarket cost £5 for 8 slices!!!!! I’ve had enough of the cost so making my own. I have just put the meat in the brine And will post again when I’ve cooked it and tasted it. Yum, can’t wait.
Its not pastrami, what you are making is corned beef. Pastrami, is corned, ( like what you made ) then you dry it, then you coat it with pepper, and coriander, then, it is long slow hot smoked to cook it tender.
If you read it said that Pastrami was suppose to be smoked. Corned Beef is boiled not cooked in this fashion. This is the way many restaurants are using to make in-house smoked meats. They usually season with smoke seasoning mix to achieve a smoked flavor. I have some of the seasoning purchase from Curedsmokehouse. They actually smoke the salt! That being said, I am trying this for the first time today. I usually smoke so I will rate later.
Tori,
I’ve just finished making my 3rd pastrami. I just cannot believe how incredible this recipe is…and so simple! Getting the deckle cut from the butcher was fairly expensive but the flat cut just doesn’t have enough fat in it, lol.
Thanks for one of my favorite recipes on your site (and there’s tons of great recipes here)!
Dave
I am living in England and Morton salt is very expensive because of the shipping, if I use the Diamond Crystal as an alternative, should I almost double the amount because of the lower salt content? I do realize that if the answer is yes then I might as well buy the Morton because it will end up being about the same cost as the diamond because I will be using less. I would appreciate your opinion, thank you.
Just trying it out , do you mix the brine you boiled with same amount of ice cold water before placing the meat in?
Correct Eran. Enjoy!
Hi Tori! LOVE your blog! Would the spice rub work with just a regular brisket? Looks yummy! THANKS!
Lisa, yes but it would need some kosher salt added, and the result won’t taste like pastrami– probably tasty, but not like deli meat. I’d also throw in some garlic cloves as you roast. Enjoy!
In response to the final question in your post, my favorite pastrami sandwich (and overall deli experience) is the same as yours — Katz’s. Second Ave. Deli (OBM) used to be a contender — my very first pastrami on rye came from there, years and years ago — but now it’s Katz’s. Sadly my travelling days are severely limited these days, if not ended, so it’s been much too long since I’ve been able to indulge. Yes, I know they have mail order, but the shipping cost is prohibitive (although I’m still tempted). I, too, have tried the homemade recipes, but not with stellar results. So I’m super excited to try your latest recipe! I’ll be off to Costco or Sam’s tomorrow to obtain a hefty portion of brisket. Thanks for this beacon of hope! L’shanah tovah — Norma
can a smoker be used with wood chips for flavoring instead of an oven?
Joe– the simple answer is yes, although I haven’t tested it that way so I can’t give you specific direction in terms of time.
PPS – I just heard from one of my tasters who is sending me the cookbook you mention, in appreciation for the great pastrami.
Not bad.
Thanks, Tori. Just subscribed to your newsletter.
PS – Sorry for the typos. I couldn’t find a way to edit.
Note that I found everything except the brisket On Amazon.
While it looked a little into dating, following your instructions was actually quite easy.
As a long time pastrami lover, I was, however, quite disappointed when I first tried it just out of the oven. In fact, I was inclined to toss it.
But I didn’t. I put it in the refrigerator for a week and then tried it again (warmed up) on a bunch of pastrami loving friends – all of whom have eaten pastrami in the top NY delis.
I got rave reviews including a couple of “the best I’ve ever eaten ” – which echoed my own reaction.
So I suggest you add a “resting” instructions
I just made this an it is DELICIOUS! We it on homemae rye and apple cider mustard I made to go with it..YUM
There is nothing safe about pink curing salts. Sodium nitrate, and sodium nitrite, are known cancer causing additives to foods. They are the substances people pay extra to have left out of their preservative-free cold cuts. Enjoy your pastrami…but know what you’re eating.
Recipe looks good… However, pink curing salt should be added to the brining/cure solution after the temperature has been reduced below 130 degrees F… from what I have read, cure starts to break down above 130 and becomes less effective.. they never say what it breaks down into…. just don’t do it….
I’m not sure about that Dave. All I know is that many people have had great success with the recipe as written.
This is so good. I make it with turkey breasts also!
It’s in the brine!!! This recipe works as well as I hope, I might retire and open “Portable Pastrami”! Question though – do you rinse the brine off before roasting?