Sometimes a flavor can spark a memory, or a flood of memories. In the case of these hand pies, the memories revolve around a grandmother, Tilly Alhadeff, and her talent for Sephardic Jewish home cooking.
I met Greg, the blogger behind Sippity Sup, at a local food blogger’s meeting two years ago. We’ve been friends ever since. I was thrilled when he announced that he was working on a new cookbook about pies– the savory kind, not sweet. He spent several months writing, testing, and photographing various pie recipes. I became accustomed to seeing pictures of pie in my Facebook news feed, as he experimented with numerous variations on the savory pie theme. At one point, I even helped him test a recipe for the cookbook… this one, in fact!
Fast forward several months later, and the book is now available for purchase. Savory Pies includes a diverse collection of pie recipes from around the world. It’s not a kosher cookbook, so those of you who keep kosher will not be able to use several of the recipes here. For the rest of you, you’ll enjoy recipes for seasoned meats, vegetables and cheese baked inside perfectly flaky pie crusts. And for those who do keep kosher, there is a Sephardic gem inside this book that Greg was kind enough to share with me– Tilly’s Pastelles.
Of this recipe, Greg says:
Tilly was my partner Ken’s grandma. She made these pastelles her whole life– so many times and so well that there was no need for a recipe. But once she passed, Ken was afraid his grandma’s particular version of this Sephardic classic would be gone as well. I know it could never be quite the same, but I’ve done my best to reproduce her recipe, based on his loving memories of his grandma and her meat pies.
Ken and Tilly, circa 1960
I asked Ken to tell me a little more about Tilly. Here is what he wrote…
Her full name was Matilda Alhadeff. She and my grandpa Albert came to Seattle from Rhodes, Greece as teens. Family lore has it that Tilly came over on a banana boat, hence her life-long dislike of bananas. She and grandpa were traditional, observant kosher Jews in a tight-knit Sephardic community.
She was a great cook. Sometimes I’d walk over to her house from high school for lunch and watch I Love Lucy reruns while devouring her chicken rice soup (with a squeeze of lemon), tomates or sevollas reinados (stuffed tomatoes or onions), fideo (vermicelli) or boyos (cheese or potato, sometimes pumpkin) and borekas (spinach was my favorite, also cheese and potato) – more “hand pies” as Greg would say – or even her terrible percolated coffee. I also remember her delicious fasulia (string beans) and for dessert, soutlach (rice pudding) which she made blended with a dusting of cinnamon on top…
Reading Ken’s memories warmed my heart. I have similar memories of my own grandparents and they foods they used to cook. Many of us do. Recipes like this one help to remind us of the good times we shared. Making this recipe felt like a celebration of Tilly’s spirit.
Do you have a family recipe that sparks memories for you?
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Tilly's Pastelles
Ingredients
Ingredients
- 3 cups water, divided
- 1 cup + 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, divided
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more as needed
- 6 cups all purpose flour, plus more as needed
- 1 large onion, finely diced (about 2 cups)
- 2 pounds ground beef
- 2 teaspoons dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon dried mint (optional)
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/4 cup uncooked white rice
- 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled and finely diced
- 1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 1/4 cup sesame seeds, plus more for sprinkling
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
- 2 egg yolks lightly beaten with 2 tsp water, for egg wash
Instructions
- In a large saucepan, bring 2 1⁄2 cups water, 1 cup vegetable oil, and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil. Remove from heat and quickly stir in 6 cups flour, using a wooden spoon, until a soft dough forms.
- Scrape onto a lightly floured surface and knead, using more flour if necessary, until smooth, pliable, and not too sticky.Form into 24 balls about 2 inches in diameter (about 1 1⁄2 ounces each) and 24 balls about 1 1⁄2 inches in diameter (about 3⁄4 ounce each). Place on parchment-lined baking sheets, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside at room temperature.
- Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add the ground meat, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, oregano, mint, if using, cumin, and paprika. The dried mint is optional. Cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until well browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Reduce to very low heat and stir in the remaining 1⁄2 cup water and uncooked rice. Cover to cook the rice al dente, about 12 minutes.
- Uncover, remove from the heat, and stir in the hard-cooked egg, parsley, 1⁄4 cup sesame seeds, and black pepper. Taste the filling; add additional salt, pepper and seasonings to taste, if desired (see my notes below). Set aside to cool completely.
- Place oven racks in the upper and center positions. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Using your floured hands, shape the larger dough balls into cups 2 1⁄2 to 3 inches wide and almost 1 inch deep. Return them to the prepared baking sheets as you work, about 1-inch apart.
- Divide the meat mixture evenly between the cups, mounding it slightly.
- On a lightly floured surface, use a lightly floured rolling pin or floured hands to roll or press the 1 1⁄2-inch dough balls into 3-inch rounds.
- Cover each filled pastelle cup with a dough round, pinching the edges together in an upward motion to make a raised lip.
- Brush the tops and sides with egg wash. Sprinkle the tops with salt and sesame seeds.
- Bake until the pastelles are golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes; switch the sheets halfway through. Serve warm or at room temperature. This recipe is easily halved to make just a dozen pastelles.
- Notes from Tori: I was only able to make about 20 balls of dough in each size, which equaled 20 pies total. You may have more or less depending on how your dough works out. Pie making is not an exact science! Next time I make these, I may spice them up a bit by using cilantro instead of parsley, as well as adding some cayenne and turmeric to the filling to taste. You know I love my spice! 🙂
Nutrition
tried this recipe?
Let us know in the comments!
To purchase a copy of Savory Pies, click here.
Other Great Recipe Ideas:
Joy the Baker: Asparagus and Gruyere Tarts
Simply Recipes: Tomato Pie
Vanilla Garlic: Potato and Onion Galette
This recipe was fabulous, and I enjoyed making these with my son for dinner this evening! I am from the Republic of Panama, and these remind me of our empanadas. Thank you for sharing the recipe as well as the story of Tilly.
I read your note at the bottom and substituted cilantro for the parsley. Also, I had some diced steamed baby potatoes on hand, so I substituted those for the rice. Served with a fresh green salad and a summer ripe peach for dessert. I will definitely be making these again!
This recipe looks FABULOUS!!! will definitely try it! The dough looks kie it would be made for pate choux sans the eggs. …so different to me! I would add 1/2 (+) teaspoon sumac. It offers a lemony freshness and is a staple ingredient in Sephardic (middle eastern/ Mediterranean cuisine)…and Allspice (1/4 tsp or more to taste) …or cloves, in place of the cumin. Just my end of Separdic cooking. Thank you for these! They are next on my to make list !
Thank you, Trish! Great story! These are as great as my Oma and Mother made! Fantastic!
My mother used to make these .she like Tillycamefrom rhodes .her maiden name was Eleonore Habib .she married David Amato and lived in Rhodesia,now Zimbabwe.I know she had friends in Seattle .she eventually joined me in Alberta ,Canada.
I am a rabbi (Reform) and an amateur chef. I’ve taken courses, including LaVarenne in Paris. I also wrote a cookbook called Jewish fusion that I couldn’t get published. Your recipes are absolutely the best I’ve ever encountered, better than some of the best know Jewish cookbook authors. I recommend you to everyone. Just wanted you to know that. I made the pastelles today, adding pinenuts as some other cookbooks suggest. Perfecto!
So kind of you Rabbi, thank you for commenting!
Mr. and Mrs. AAA were best friends with my grandparents, I have such fond memories of the whole family. Miss that generation but cherish the beautiful memories. Janine Eskenazi Hasson (Seattle)
From Leo—I was fortunate to have known Matilda Alhadeff and her Husband Triple A. She was the nicest, sweet person. She (they) lived approximately five houses away from my parents residence where I grew up. I grew up with Marian, Matilda’s daughter. we
attended grade school, middle school and high school together. Matilda’s Husband was known as “triple A” to distinguish him from the other Alhadeff’s who also resided in our community.
I do not know Greg who is referenced in the article but Ken must be the son of Marian and her wonderful Husband (deceased). Marion’s Husband was also a close childhood friend of mine. I also, as another remarked, would like to know how Marion is doing. Please pass my sentiments on to Ken. The picture of Matilda in your post is just as true as I remember her.
These came out so great! They look just like the pictures. Next time I will double (at least) the spice, as the flavor was good, just not enough for my taste. I served with mashed potatoes and they were wonderful, even better the next day too.
My grandmother, Perla Galante [nee Alhadef], came to Seattle from Rodos. I still remember her pastelicos, which I loved. ? I have a hunch you and I may be related.
I made these last night, despite the minor trepidation that baking and pastry give me. They were excellent! Flavorful, fun to make, and so satisfying. They also reheat very well. Thanks to Ken and you, Tori, for providing such an excellent story and recipe!
I am Jewish from Bulgaria, our Pastels was made in pie dish, not individual (less work) but never with uncooked rice we used whole grilled eggplant that was chopped in.
This receipt brings back lots of wonderful memories.
Thank you all,
Etty
This is actually a message to Ken. I hail from Montgomery AL’s small Sephardic community all from Rhodes (and Turkey)- had an Aunt Matilda Alhadeff as well- we have family in Seattle- my guess is we are related! Just had pastellies for Rosh Hashona- my 91 year old mother still making everything delicious! L’Shana Tova ‘cousin’.
Gilson Capilouto
Gilson, I believe we’ve met once many, many years ago. I always remembered your first name, for some reason. My grandfather David Mossafer came to Seattle while his first cousin stayed in Montgomery.
Very interesting, equal to the mass of a Brazilian salty coxinha of several fillings
Greg, I knew Ken’s grandmother. What a wonderful lady. She was my sister’s witness when she applied for citizenship.
We would call her husband triple A. What a great couple.
I’m also from Rhodes and I make good pastelles and yes, they are hard to make, but worth it.
I have no way of reaching Ken and would like to know how Marian is. I hope she’s well.
This is an amazing recipe for the most delicious meat pies that I have had in a long while!